Read this before you buy a lock

A deadbolt keyed on both sides is sometimes suggested for doors with glass beside them, but on a main escape door it means finding a key to get out. A door people use to leave the home should open from the inside without a key or special knowledge, especially in an emergency. A single-cylinder deadbolt with a thumb-turn, paired with a reinforced strike and a proper glass film if needed, keeps both security and a clear way out.

Fewer than most businesses think, and every one of them named. Two people who can open, one of whom can be reached on a day off, cover the door. Cleaners and contractors get a key only if they need one and hand it back when the arrangement ends. Write down who has what, collect keys when people leave, and rekey when one does not come back. Interior keys for the cash office or stockroom follow the same rule on a shorter list.

In most cases yes, and it is tested in front of you with a key that fits. The inspection after extraction is where the honest answer lives: if the pins, springs and cap are sound and the keyway is clean, the cylinder goes back into service with a fresh key. If wear or damage caused the break, that is explained and a rekey or new cylinder is offered as a separate choice.

The door is left as found until the police have seen it or said they will not attend. What can happen in the meantime is planning: the locksmith can look at the damage, photograph it, measure for hardware and prepare the temporary securing so that the moment the scene is released the work begins. Nothing is removed or moved before then, because the marks on the door are part of the report.

Try the key while gently pushing, pulling and lifting the door. If it frees up in one position, the bolt is being pinched by the frame and the door is the cause. If nothing changes, look at the key: does it go fully in and refuse to turn, or spin freely? The first points to the cylinder, the second to the tailpiece behind it. Tell the locksmith which you found and the right parts come in the van.

Plan on an hour or two for a typical house with three or four cylinders, including the walk-through, identification, pinning, cutting and testing. Each additional cylinder adds a little, as does swapping a cylinder to bring a mismatched door onto the same key, resetting a homeowner-rekeyable lock or clearing a garage opener. The locksmith gives a realistic window on the phone once the list of doors is known.

Yes, at every cylinder that was rekeyed. Once the bottom pins are changed, a key cut to the old combination lifts them to the wrong heights and the plug will not turn. The locksmith proves this at each door by trying the old key after the new one, because any door missed from the list would still answer to the old key. That is also why the walk around the property at the start matters: every door meant to be included has to be on the list.

The usual position is 140 to 150 mm above the centre of the knob, which lines the two locks up and keeps both within one reach. Manufacturers' templates assume that spacing, which helps a later keypad or handleset line up, though many handlesets still need their own lower hole drilled to that model's template. The height is nudged if it would land on glass, a decorative panel or a hollow spot inside an insulated door, and to make sure the frame behind it is solid.

A straightforward like-for-like deadbolt or knob set on a standard door is often a matter of an hour or less including testing. Add time for a reinforced strike, for keying several locks alike and cutting keys, for a smart lock's setup and pairing, and for repairing a split jamb or adapting an older door. When several entrances are done together, the locksmith gives a realistic window before starting so you can plan the day.

Springs, first and foremost: the latch spring, the hub spring that returns the knob, and the small springs on the deadbolt levers. After that, the spindle and knob set screws, a hub whose square has worn round, a worn deadbolt lever or follower, and on later locks the cylinder set screw or the cylinder itself. Bolts, cases and trim are almost always kept, cleaned and refitted rather than replaced.

It depends on who uses the door. Codes suit everyone and need nothing in hand. Fobs or cards are a favourite for children and for anyone who finds small buttons difficult, since a tap does it. Fingerprint readers are convenient for a household of adults but can be fussy with cold, wet or gloved hands in winter, so pair them with a code. Phone control is for whoever wants alerts and remote checks. Most families end up using two of these.

It helps to know which gate or door is affected, roughly how old the lock or closer is, and what exactly is happening: dragging, slamming, refusing a key, or a buzzer that stopped releasing the door. If the entry is shared, a rough idea of how many households or units currently need a working key speeds up the visit considerably. For a building entry, having contact information for a property manager or condo board on hand is useful if a decision needs their sign-off.

Almost always, only the lock: the small cylinder and its cam come out, and a matching replacement goes into the same hole in the same compartment door. The mailbox itself, the door, and the surrounding panel stay exactly as they were. A full compartment door or panel is only replaced when it has been damaged beyond a simple lock swap, and that would be discussed separately before any work begins.

Usually not. It depends on the model. Some electronic locks offer an external contact for a fresh battery, or a mechanical override key behind a cover plate; restoring power this way wakes a dead keypad but does not bypass a lost code on its own. Others have a reset port on the lock body, which sits inside the safe and still needs the door opened by other means first. The locksmith works through that model's own documented procedure before considering anything more invasive.

Clearing a working space in front of the safe, moving anything stacked against or on top of it, and having a rough idea of when it was last serviced all help the visit start smoothly. If the combination or code is still known, having it on hand avoids needing to open the unit by other means first. Nothing more elaborate than that is generally needed beforehand.

A restricted keyway is one the manufacturer supplies to a limited set of dealers, so blanks are harder to obtain but not legally protected. A patented key design is protected by a patent for a fixed term, and making or selling the blank without permission is unlawful during that time. Patented systems give the firmer control; restricted ones give a useful step up. The locksmith explains which your chosen line uses and when any patent expires.

Only the cylinders that master opened, which the keying chart identifies. If the lost key was the top master, that is every lock in the system; if it was a departmental master, it is that department's doors. Where no chart exists, the locksmith reads the cylinders first to establish what the key reached. The remaining doors, and any keys that never opened them, are left exactly as they are.

The existing chart is the starting point rather than a blank page. Doors that move to a new department are reassigned within the existing hierarchy where the cylinders and platform allow it, and only the affected levels are touched. A reorganization is usually an adjustment to the record, not a reason to rebuild the whole system from the ground up.

Not always — it depends on the hardware chosen for that door. Where a mechanical override cylinder is fitted and keyed in, it can still be opened by key regardless of what happens to the electronics, the network, or the power supply, and it is meant as a backup rather than a daily habit, since using it routinely bypasses the entry record the system is there to keep.

Delayed-egress locking has a defined place in the codes that cover it, generally paired with sprinkler protection and a fire alarm system, and it is not a way to lock a door indefinitely; a short delay still releases on its own once the push is held, and always releases as soon as a fire alarm signal arrives. Whether it suits a given opening depends on the occupancy and the authority having jurisdiction, so it is confirmed with them before it is specified.

Commercial-grade hardware is built for far higher cycle counts and rougher daily handling than a home lock ever sees: heavier internal components, a lock body and strike designed to take repeated forceful use, and often a rating tied to an industry grading system that measures cycles and impact resistance. A residential deadbolt fitted to a busy business door tends to wear out well before its time because it was never built for that volume of use.

For keys locked in, lost or broken, a locksmith opens the car where it stands and can usually make a key on the spot, so the car drives away. A tow moves the car to a shop but leaves the key problem unsolved. Roadside clubs send a locksmith for lockouts and reserve towing for cars that cannot be made drivable. If the shoulder is unsafe to work on, a short tow first may be sensible.

Because a car key is a credential, and issuing one to the wrong person would be a serious matter for the real owner. Matching photo identification and the vehicle permit to the VIN on the dash is the standard step, and it takes a minute. It protects you too: the same check stands between your car and anyone who might one day claim it as theirs.

If the original has remote buttons and you want the spare to match, yes: the new key or fob is programmed to the vehicle's receiver so locking, unlocking and any other remote function respond the same way from either key. If a simpler spare is preferred instead, the remote portion can be left out while the chip that starts the car is still fully recognized.

Remove the battery as soon as possible and let the fob dry completely before testing it again, since a battery left in contact with a damp circuit board usually causes the lasting damage rather than the water itself. If the fob still fails to respond once it is dry, the shell and battery contacts are worth checking before assuming the electronics are beyond repair.

The transponder is the passive chip that talks to the immobilizer and lets the engine start; it needs no battery of its own. The fob is the separate, battery-powered piece that handles remote locking, unlocking and alarm functions. Many modern keys combine both in one housing, but they answer two different systems, which is why a fob with a dead battery can still start the car with its mechanical blade.

No part of the vehicle's electronic security system is bypassed or defeated as part of a mechanical ignition repair. The locksmith works on the physical cylinder and its housing, and any question involving the immobilizer or transponder system is identified and referred rather than worked around, so the vehicle's built-in protection stays exactly as it was designed to work.

Note which lock is affected, whether the key turns without effect or resists turning, and whether the remote behaves differently from the mechanical key on that same door. That description helps the locksmith bring the right parts for the specific fault.

Very little beyond two simple habits: wipe the key clean before use, especially after a wet ride, and, where the lock's own maker calls for it, a light dose of the specified lubricant once or twice a year. Storing a spare somewhere other than on the machine itself rounds out the care a new key or lock generally needs.