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Person holding the black deadbolt and doorknob of a partly open blue front door. — Deadbolt Installation, Oshawa
Hands holding a lock cylinder and a ring of keys above a worn workbench with another cylinder and loose keys. — Lock Rekeying, Oshawa

Change or rekey · Oshawa

Deadbolt Installation in Oshawa

The front door has a handsome lever and a keyed knob, and that is all.

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In plain words

Deadbolt installation puts a solid bolt lock on a door that either has none or has one that is past its useful life. Unlike the spring latch in a knob or lever, a deadbolt is a straight bar of metal that only moves when the key or thumb-turn moves it, so a card slipped into the gap or a shove against the door does nothing. The locksmith bores the door if needed, fits the bolt and cylinder, cuts a proper pocket in the frame and secures a reinforced strike with screws long enough to reach the framing. You are left with a door that locks with a firm, full throw.

Sound familiar?

Someone tried the door last winter. The frame took it, but the strike plate is bent, one screw hole is stripped, and the bolt sits in the pocket at a slight angle. It still locks, and it still bothers you every night.

How the visit goes

Deadbolt Installation

How the visit goes

Person in a green cap holding a brushed-metal deadbolt against a dark door while a yellow drill rests below it. — Oshawa
White door with a black keypad deadbolt and knob, beside a towel holding a lock body, latch, screwdriver and a tool bag. — Oshawa
  1. How the door hangs and closes

    Before a new bolt goes in, the door has to close properly on its own, so the locksmith swings it a few times and watches. A door that drops on tired hinges, binds against thick weatherstrip or has to be pulled to latch will put a new deadbolt out of line the moment the season changes. Hinge screws are tested for grip, the gap around the door is read for evenness, and the existing latch is checked against its strike. Small corrections here, such as a longer hinge screw into the framing or a trimmed weatherstrip, are made first so the deadbolt can be set to a door that sits square and stays there.

  2. Swapping an old deadbolt in place

    When an existing bolt is being replaced, the work starts by backing out the two inside screws and lifting off both housings, then removing the bolt from the edge. The bore and backset are measured against the new hardware, and any difference is dealt with before the new bolt goes in: a larger bore for a smart deadbolt, a different faceplate shape, or a spacer for a thinner door. The new bolt, cylinder and thumb-turn go on in the usual order. The old strike comes off too, the pocket is deepened if needed, and a reinforced strike with long screws replaces it, so the upgrade happens on both sides of the gap.

  3. The rest of the door, tidied

    A deadbolt installation usually leaves the whole entry better than it found it. Hinge screws that were loose have been replaced with longer ones that bite into the framing, so the door hangs square. Weatherstrip that pinched the door has been trimmed and the latch below the new bolt has been checked against its own strike. The bore edges are clean, any shavings and steel filings have been vacuumed from the sill and the core, and the finish around the new hardware is unmarked. Open and close the door a few times over the next week and let the locksmith know if anything changes as the door settles.

Deadbolt Installation

In the van

  • Bolt faceplate or drive-in collar

  • Manufacturer's bore template

  • Rekeying pins and key blanks

  • 25 mm auger bit

  • Strike box

Technician holding a small key fob at a bench with a key-cutting machine, loose keys, and a motorcycle and scooter behind. — Oshawa

Deadbolt Installation

What affects the quote

  1. Strike and frame reinforcement

    A reinforced strike with long screws is standard; a full-length jamb reinforcer, a strike box or repairs to a split jamb after a forced entry are extra items quoted on their own.

  2. Glass near the lock

    A captive thumb-turn, laminated glass, security film or a relocated bolt height each carry their own cost, and the choice you make about glass shapes that part of the quote.

  3. Rental and building requirements

    Matching a building's keyway, providing keys to a landlord or fitting a lock that a condominium corporation specifies can add hardware or bench work, each shown as its own item.

What to have ready

  • Does anyone in the household have trouble with small knobs or stiff thumb-turns?
  • Has the door or frame ever been forced, or are any screw holes stripped?
  • Is there glass in the door or a sidelight beside it within arm's reach of the lock?
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Deadbolt Installation: questions

Questions
How high above the knob does the deadbolt go?

The usual position is 140 to 150 mm above the centre of the knob, which lines the two locks up and keeps both within one reach. Manufacturers' templates assume that spacing, which helps a later keypad or handleset line up, though many handlesets still need their own lower hole drilled to that model's template. The height is nudged if it would land on glass, a decorative panel or a hollow spot inside an insulated door, and to make sure the frame behind it is solid.

Do I need a deadbolt on the door from the garage into the house?

It is worth having. The door between an attached garage and the living space is in practice often the softest way in, since a garage door left open leaves a passage knob as the only barrier. A thumb-turn deadbolt there costs a few minutes a day and closes that gap.

I rent. Can I have a deadbolt installed on my unit door?

You can, with a conversation first. Tenancy rules in this province expect a tenant to have the landlord's consent before changing locks and expect the landlord to hold a key, so ask in writing and share the plan. Many landlords welcome a proper bolt. The locksmith can key the new cylinder to the building's existing key where the keyway allows, and leave a note of the model and keys cut for the building manager.

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Deadbolt Installation near you

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